Shorter mufflers can help create that top-end power and help save even more weight. Also, keep in mind standard clutches take a beating in this type of racing. Barnett [] is a good source for quality stock-replacement components. Steel-braided lines, hi temp brake fluid and performance rotors are all good starting points. More performance can be added with dual-piston calipers and high capacity reservoirs. Lonestar Racing has caliper brackets incase you want to mix caliper components from brand to brand or go with oversized rotors.
An adjustable clutch lever is important in this environment. Clutches heat up, so having the ability to adjust freeplay on the fly can help you later in the race. Renthal and Works Connection offer the best adjustable products.
And regardless of size, the rider is the heaviest component of the package. QuadTech also makes lowered seats and covers with less foam, along with more grip. You can trim the foam on an ATV yourself too.
A long carving knife works the best for the job. Trim the foam following stock contour so the seat cover will reinstall cleanly. Local upholstery shops can do the work for you if needed. Up to 10 pounds can be saved removing the headlights, brake lights, and wiring and bracketry. A small dirt bike kill button can be used to replace a starter button that is usually connected to the big light switch cluster.
Parking brakes and the heavy support cables and hooks can be eliminated. If you can, avoid adding unnecessary parking brake block-off plates or other billet-aluminum, ignition-timing plugs, reservoir covers, and throttle housing caps. Fenders can be trimmed and some braces can be removed. A few ounces can be saved here, along with cutting down the wind resistance on those long straightaways.
Companies like TekBolt sell fastener kits that have smaller, lighter heads. Precise-length bolts are a smart way to assemble things. When building his race machines, Little would shave off any excess bolt threads sticking out beyond their nuts.
Renthal sells aluminum rear sprockets that are significantly lighter than stock, and their countershaft sprockets have holes drilled in them for considerable weight savings. On some machines you can change your lug nuts out for smaller units. Titanium fasteners are also used, but keep in mind the dollar investment may not be quite worth the savings in weight. Comments are closed, but trackbacks and pingbacks are open. You might also like More from author. Prev Next. Follow Us dirtwheelsmag.
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Necessary Necessary. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. But you deffinatly want a sway bar. Most guys in my local circut run a very built motor, stock shocks, lowering kit, swaybar, and TT tires. I Highly sugest a conversion if you have the money. Build a CRF, anything and everything you can to the engine, extended a-arms, shortened swingarm, extended axle, sway bar, ZPS shocks.
You'll be about right. Or get a YFZ get some wheel spacers, sway bar lowering kit, and pipe and filter it. Should be pretty damn fast. What chassis are you using now? Going out and buying a r or yfz would be the best bet. Depending on your size, shorter swingarms can really help the handling of the bike. You'll want good tires and a sway bar first off. For a-arms, JDperformance makes really good a arms and swingarms for the price.
As for axle, get a g-force or something cheap. Just dont be jumping huge jumps with it. Shocks actually help quite a bit. Get some works or something simple. After all, you arent going to be testing them by hitting huge jumps.
For the motor, there are lots of choices there, you should jsut decide what to get. A R is unrivaled on the TT track. Baldwin told me that Farr still prefers the R for TT!
I promise the 's are turning faster lap times.
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