Right-handed doors open to the right and left-handed doors open to the left. The rough door opening should be correctly built for prehung door installation:. The sides of the door frame jambs may need to be trimmed to allow for the height of the flooring. If the floor is unfinished, generally estimate 2 inches from the top of the unfinished floor to the bottom of the door. If the floor is finished, leave about a 0. Trim the bottoms of the jambs as needed or leave as-is.
Slide the door into position in the door opening. Bring the hinge side of the door to level. Temporarily nail into place with shims and finish nails. Level the latching side of the door. Nail into place with shims and finish nails. Place a shim at the top of the door unit, just below the header, and nail it into place with finish nails.
With the tape measure, check both diagonals for door frame square. Shim as necessary to bring the door frame back into square. If the door is correctly positioned, nail shims every 12 inches or so. Trim off the shims with the handsaw. In most cases, prehung doors should be installed by experienced carpenters. Draw a line along the bottom of the old door to mark where the new one has to be cut.
Using a combination square and a pencil, draw lines on the edge of the new door that correspond to the tops and bottoms of the mortices on the old door.
Remove the old door, chisel out the mortices with a hammer and chisel and cut along the line on the bottom of the door with a circular saw.
Paint the door if necessary you can also paint it after you hang it , screw the hinges you removed from the old door onto the new one and then lift the door into the door opening. Align the hinges and drop in the hinge pins.
If you don't have an old door to use as a template, you have to hang the door the hard way hard because it involves more lifting. Start by cutting the door to length. Measure the height of the door opening with a tape measure, subtract an inch for wiggle room, measure that distance from the top of the new door, draw a cut line using a pencil and straightedge and cut along the line with a circular saw.
Mark the tops and bottoms of the mortices in the door jamb on the door and then take the door down and chisel out mortices for the hinges. The framed-in rough opening for the door is always around 2" wider than the purchased door not including the jamb around the door. This allows for adjustment when installing the door to achieve plumb "level". Start getting things straightened out. Start by drawing a plumb line on the wall.
Using a 6' or 4' level draw a level line down the drywall. You can also use a laser level, which may be easier and more accurate there are many models that can attach to a wall. Attach the door installation brackets. Attach 6 door installation brackets to the outside of the door jamb, the wood frame to which the door comes pre-attached.
Place a bracket behind each of the three hinges. Attach the remaining three brackets on the the other side of the jamb. The first bracket should be 8" from the top, the next bracket just above the latch stop, and the final bracket 8" from the bottom of the door. Place the door into the opening on top of blocks or shims. Never place the door directly on an unfinished floor. Attach the brackets.
Using the plumb line on the wall, screw in the top bracket on the hinge side of the door. Then screw in the next 2 brackets using the same reference notch as the first bracket. After the 3 brackets are screwed into the wall using the same reference notch for each, the door is now level.
Now check the reveal gap between door and door jamb when screwing in each of the final 3 brackets. Start at the top of the door and check the reveal when screwing in the top bracket. Check the reveal when screwing in the final 2 brackets. The door will now be perfectly hung and the blocks under the door can now be removed.
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